Back in Havana, my dinner reservation at the paladar La Guarida beckoned. A paladar is a privately run restaurant, usually in someone’s home. La Guarida came highly recommended, and arriving just before 9 pm at Concordia No 418, I stood in front of the dilapidated facade of La Mansión Camaguey, built in 1913 in the grand Spanish Colonial style.
After climbing the expansive marble stairs past laundry hanging to dry on the first two seemingly abandoned levels, La Guarida revealed itself on the third. Once the family home of Enrique and Ode, it now houses the restaurant. From the rooftop bar, I could look across Old Havana and, to the north, see the Malecón. After an ‘aperitif’, I was led to my table in one of the small dining rooms, probably once bedrooms or living rooms.
The decor was dark and broody; artworks, religious icons, mirrors, plates, photos, bric-a-brac and ballet shoes were among the old bits and pieces decorating the walls. Tableware, a mix of Royal Albert and slabs of slate, on heavy, old linen.
There’s an old joke — “What are the three worst things about Cuba? … breakfast, lunch, and dinner.” You run out of combinations fast with rice, fried beans, and pork.
I ordered a seafood lasagne followed by 3 small medallions of rib-eye each with different sauces and finished off with a refreshing dessert (postre) served on a rock, everything was delicious. But, it wouldn’t have mattered if all that was on offer was rice, beans and pork because the atmosphere was electric. I had as good a restaurant experience as I’ve ever had, here in this busy, bustling, noisy restaurant that felt like a movie set. The family owners were actually inspired by the movie Strawberry and Chocolate – “Fresa y Chocolat” when creating the restaurant. Waiters were attentive and in full swing, unlike the often dour service at state-run joints.
This was my last dinner in Cuba and I couldn’t think of a better way to wrap up my time here.