Day 17 – June 25
Back at Havana after a day touring Viñales Valley, my dinner reservation at the Paladar La Guarida beckoned. A Paladar is the name given to privately run restaurants generally in people’s homes. La Guaruda came highly recommended, and arriving just before 9 pm at Concordia No 418, I stood in front of the dilapidated facade of La Mansión Camaguey, built in 1913 in the grand Spanish Colonial style.
Taking the expansive marble stairs up through the first two levels, which seemed abandoned apart from restaurant laundry hanging out to dry, you are welcomed by La Guarida on the third level. Here was once the family home of the owners, Enrique and Ode.
From the rooftop bar, you could look across Old Havana, and to the north, you could see the Malecón in the distance. After a quick drink, I was taken to my table in one of the many small dining rooms, which may have once been bedrooms, living rooms etc.
The decor was dark and broody; artworks, religious icons, mirrors, plates, photos, bric-a-brac and ballet shoes were among the old bits and pieces decorating the walls. Tableware, a mix of Royal Albert and slabs of slate on heavy, old linen.
There’s an old joke going around – “what are the three worst things about Cuba? … breakfast, lunch, and dinner“, there are only so many combinations you can drum up with rice, fried beans, and pork.
But, I ordered a seafood lasagne followed by 3 small medallions of rib-eye each with different sauces and finished off with a refreshing dessert (postre) served on a rock, everything was delicious. But, it wouldn’t have mattered if all that was on offer was rice, beans and pork because the atmosphere was electric. I had as good a restaurant experience as I’ve ever had, here in this busy, bustling, noisy restaurant which felt like being in the middle of a movie set. The family owners were actually inspired by the movie Strawberry and Chocolate – “Fresa y Chocolat” in the creation of this restaurant. Waiters were attentive and in full swing unlike the often dour service and experience that you often find at the food joints run by the government.
This was my last dinner in Cuba and I couldn’t think of a better way to wrap up my time here.